Style Q&A: Bespoke

I've been hearing the term "bespoke" tossed around on style blogs and brands lately. At the risk of sounding out of touch, what exactly is "bespoke"?

This is a totally fair question that I think a lot of people secretly wonder and google search.

Once upon a time, people wore clothes that fit.  Some people went to the tailor, got measured, and had all of their clothes made to the measurements of their own bodies because buying off the rack wasn't an option. This is bespoke at its purest: completely custom, perfectly cut, and properly constructed. It was clothing that wasn't created until the request was made (bespoken... get it). In short, it was clothing that was built to last for the individual.

In the past handful of decades, we've seen a lot of trends come and go, and the availability of more disposable clothing options making it expensive and not so necessary to put a lot of thought, time, or consideration into developing a wardrobe, as you can just replace it next season.

I probably don't have to tell you this, but there are tons of brands these days that talk in great detail now about the history and process of their products, discussing handmade goods, and local artisan production that makes you feel like that product was made by a person who you can relate to.

In recent years, a lot of consumers have been interested in the idea of build-your-own or co-creation in product and experience, alike.  Everything from customized chocolate bars to stuffed teddy bears to sneakers- it's all falls under this now more umbrella term for made to order product and service that we now refer to as "bespoke".

I'm a believer in this whole idea of having products made to order. The time and anticipation are worth it when you are able to wear something that is made the way you want it, and by another person's hands. It's kind of magical like that.

Fading: An Un-Love Story

What to do with faded black clothes? -Alison

Hey Alison, great question. We talk so much about investing in clothing that will last, but talk little about how in fact to make that happen. First I'll answer a few follow up questions, then get to the solutions.

Why do clothes fade?

Dark colored clothing get to that shade from dyes (no surprise there). When washing clothes, if the water is left a different color, it is because of dye being released from the garment itself.  This is how whites get not-so-white, and the reason behind the red sock turning clothes pink phenomenon.

When washing clothes in water with detergent, this will happen over time. Some people turn garments like dark jeans inside out to preserve color. In all actuality, this doesn't preserve the die on the inside, it is only to prevent against the middle spin thing of the washer from causing abrasions... thus wear and fading.  If you have a front load washer, it's less of an issue.

Also, the sun, hair products, and other chemicals can all lead to wear on the dye and how it relates to fiber, just as it can to your hot new hair color.

And what can I do about it?

-Hand wash with soaps made for dark clothes or Woolite. The dark clothes detergents actually have a small amount of dye in them to help restore the color, but this isn't such a great option if you have patterns on the clothes, because it ends up dying all colors, not just the black.

-Wash only with other black clothes. Remember the dye in the water I mentioned earlier? If you're washing all blacks together, this dye leakage that you are soaking in can help lead back to the garments that it leaked from. It's not really a fix, but it may help prolong fading.

-Dry clean. There's no water or color leakage here. So if your garments can be dry cleaned and they are worth preserving, this may be the route. You can also spot clean as necessary. Some people only dry clean their denim, particularly denim of the selvage variety. But that's another topic for another day.

-Dye the clothes to intensify the color. You can pick up a box of RIT dye from your local craft, fabric, or art store for a couple dollars and follow the directions to dye the entire garment in hopes of restoring the color. This method works best on natural fibers (cotton, wool, etc.), but can be used on synthetic fibers as well. But the same rule of thumb with dye applies: don't use it on patterned fabrics because it will change all colors, not just the blacks.

Style Q&A: Suspenders

Hey Rachel, I just bought a pair of suspenders, and want to incorporate it into a look that's casual enough to wear out to dinner, or dressy enough for going out. Any suggestions for shirts/shoes that would work? -Lost in L.A.

Hey there West Coast! Can I call you that? Great.

Now that we're friends, let's get to work and break down your question. What I'm getting is that you're a guy who wants to style your suspenders in a versatile way, so you don't look like a slob or a tool. Fair enough; let's begin.

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I'm into the mixing/matching casual and tailored approach to creating a look so it's inherently versatile. That is to say, casual shirt or v-neck/nicer slacks/biker jacket or very tailored shirt/skinny or bow tie/rolled up denim/hard bottom shoes.  Experiment with other accessories too, like hats, bracelets, and patterned socks.

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 In either case, you're keeping some aspects very sharp, while leaving the rest unfussy so that you don't look so... calculated. The fact that it is, well, we can keep that between us.

Got a style question? Ask me anonymously or otherwise at Formspring. I'll share the answer here on the blog.

Learning to Sew

I recently had a question come to me on Twitter about suggestions when buying her first sewing machine.  Hooray for craftiness!

Sewing machines and one of those subjects that if you sew, you have an opinion about. It's kind of like asking somebody what's a good first car for a new driver... it just kind of depends.

I grew up learning the and around Singer machines, so this is what I know best.  When I decided to take lessons to increase my technical skill in sewing, the classroom had Singer machines.  I know them well, they are comfortable to me.  

For the new sewer who wants to work on a project here and there or do some casual work with a machine that has some flexibility, I'll play favorites.

7463 Confidence

Singer 7467S Confidence

From the outset, I don't know that the two machines functionally are very different.  I've worked on both machines in workrooms, and they seem to be pretty standard in classrooms.  Simply put, they do the job in a not too terribly finicky way.  They are simple, they thread easily, drop-in bobbin, and button hole stitching that is easy enough to get after a few practice tries.

When you get to the point where you are making clothes regularly and want to develop a more finished look, I'd start to look at sergers (the machines that stitch to enclose the edges... take a look on the inside seam of your shirt to see what I mean).  Again for the less than commercial sewer (most of us), you won't need anything too intense or even a 5-thread machine.  I personally own a Janome machine, and really do love it.